There's so much more to ingredients than what they do.
Inter Actifs' digital publication invites you to explore the conversational value of beauty ingredients and create richer connections with consumers.

Vitamin Boosters


Vitamins are essential for the body to function properly. And, also for the skin. In an era of minimalist formulas, back to essentials and tired immune systems, vitamins are the new stars of the beauty sector. However, in cosmetics, it can be difficult to capitalize on their full potential as they are often instable and difficult to dissolve. This is why strategies that produce a vitamin-like action or make vitamins easier to use are so appealing.

Vitamin A

In the form of retinol, Vitamin A is a multifunctional regenerative active ingredient whose effect on the skin makes it precious. However, in an era where softness is sometimes lacking, we could be put off by its irritant effect.

ALBASTIM, the lipophile complex developed by Barnet, has a retinol-like action while also modulating the skin’s inflammatory response. This active ingredient associates extracts of sunflower and safflower obtained by extracting supercritical CO2 from the lipidic fraction of mulberry leaves. Like retinol, it has a short and long-term action that exfoliates the corneal layer and improves cellular cohesion.

Another solution? Allosteris E – a plant complex containing phospho and lysosphingolipids, mono and diglycerides, polyamino acids and sugars – that enables us to reduce by a factor of 3 the amount of retinol required.

Vitamin B

Folic acid, or vitamin B9, is a talented vitamin found in leafy vegetables – spinach isn’t only packed with iron. However, it is difficult to use in cosmetics as it doesn’t dissolve well in pH below 7. 

Using fermentation, Labio laboratories successfully added a γ-polyglutamate polymer of glutamic acid to form a more stable and soluble (pH 4.5-7) version.  B9-VITAPOL has an impact on cellular growth and the expression of MMP-1. The benefits – anti-wrinkle effect, control of histamine release, anti-porphyrin action and hydrating effect – have been demonstrated during in-vitro testing. A “plus” version has also been developed that associates B9-Vitapol with glycyrrhizic acid for a lightening and anti-irritant action.

With HydraDuct B3, Barnet encapsulates vitamin B3 precursors (tryptophane, niacin and inositol) in urea and glycerin. The solution capitalizes on the clathrate system to ensure a progressive and continuous action. At 3%, HydraDuct B3:

  • Hydrates from application for up to 24 hours
  • Actives the synthesis of ceramides (2,3, 4 and 6), making the skin more resistant
  • Encourages cellular dynamism and mitochondrial synthesis

Vitamin C

  Vitamin C is famous for its anti-aging, lightening action. But also, for its instability. This iw why Barnet combined it with Ergothioneine to potentiate its effects. IntenCfy is based on this amino acid’s remarkable natural affinity with fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The complex recycles oxidized forms of vitamin C to increase the amount of active vitamin in the cell even under oxidative stress. This powerful duo revitalizes and protects cells using compounds with high cellular affinity.

The efficacity of IntenCfy has been validated for:

  • antioxidant action
  • mitochondrial protection
  • anti-pollution action, anti-ozone shield effect
  • DNA integrity preservation under UVA exposure
  • MMP-1 reduction

In testing, this ergothioneine-vitamin synergy has been demonstrated to promote the synthesis of collagen I and III and inhibit melanogenesis.

Vitamin D

  Vitamin D is known for being essential to growth and good health. However, less so for its role in maintaining epidermal homeostasis and cellular differentiation. It acts via specific Vitamin D Receptors (VDR), which are found at the heart of numerous mechanisms in the protection and repair of the cutaneous defense system. Vitamin D deficiency can cause the skin barrier function to become less effective.

Developed by Technoble laboratories, WhitepeoD is extracted from white peony rich in kaempferol glycoside, which acts as a Vitamin D analog. It activates the VDR receptors and stimulates the synthesis of the proteins involved in forming tight junctions (claudins and occludins), which reinforce the skin’s barrier function.  A clinical study of patients with dry skin and vitamin D deficiency has demonstrated its capacity, from 1%, to significantly reduce water loss and increase hydration.